Make Your Own Chains Part 2
Judy Larson continues her chain-making educational series by taking a closer look at cost and value. In part two of her three part series, she explains when making your own specialty chains is worth your time and when buying ready-made might make more sense.
The takeaway is clear: handmade chains can help your designs stand out from the rest!
The takeaway is clear: handmade chains can help your designs stand out from the rest!
Buying ready-made designer chains is fine, but it gets expensive compared to making your own.
Ask yourself if making specialty chains is worth your time. In many cases, yes. Handmade chains make your designs stand out.
After cable chains, many jewelry artists tackle the Byzantine Chain.
This beautiful chain originated around 300 BCE in the Byzantine Empire. It looks intricate but is easy to construct, perfect for beginners.
The Byzantine Chain is a 4-in-1 chain. Each link passes through four others, making it very strong. Cable chains are 2-in-2 or 3-in-3.
It requires lots of jump rings. For a bracelet, you might need up to 250, depending on gauge, size, and length.
Consider switching from flush cutters to a faster, more accurate method for cutting jump rings.
Flush-cut jump ring ends rarely meet flush. Burrs need filing, and sizes vary, making chain construction harder.
Machine cutting systems or saws remove only about 0.25 mm between ends. Each jump ring matches the next in size.
Saws work well for cutting coils into jump rings. Personal preference and first method learned guide your choice.
Chain mailers often invest in machine systems. Occasional makers prefer hand sawing.
Ask yourself if making specialty chains is worth your time. In many cases, yes. Handmade chains make your designs stand out.
After cable chains, many jewelry artists tackle the Byzantine Chain.
This beautiful chain originated around 300 BCE in the Byzantine Empire. It looks intricate but is easy to construct, perfect for beginners.
The Byzantine Chain is a 4-in-1 chain. Each link passes through four others, making it very strong. Cable chains are 2-in-2 or 3-in-3.
It requires lots of jump rings. For a bracelet, you might need up to 250, depending on gauge, size, and length.
Consider switching from flush cutters to a faster, more accurate method for cutting jump rings.
Flush-cut jump ring ends rarely meet flush. Burrs need filing, and sizes vary, making chain construction harder.
Machine cutting systems or saws remove only about 0.25 mm between ends. Each jump ring matches the next in size.
Saws work well for cutting coils into jump rings. Personal preference and first method learned guide your choice.
Chain mailers often invest in machine systems. Occasional makers prefer hand sawing.
Pro Tip: When making jump rings for a project, make a few extra. There will always be a need for them in later projects.
My jump rings are stored in little clear resealable bags labeled with the wire size and mandrel size I used to make them.
My jump rings are stored in little clear resealable bags labeled with the wire size and mandrel size I used to make them.
Store them in ascending gauge and size order in baseball card sleeve pages.
Every jewelry artist develops a jump ring system through trial and error.
What works for you?
Every jewelry artist develops a jump ring system through trial and error.
What works for you?
Byzantine Chain Tips
More complicated chains repeat ring connection series.
The Byzantine repeats the same steps twice for its traditional look.
Each series uses six jump rings in sets of two.
Use same size and gauge rings in three metal colors like brass, copper, and silver.
Or try silver plated craft wire, enameled craft wire, or enameled aluminum wire.
Use soft jaw pliers to open and close coated rings without scratching the finish.
Kylie Jones explains why she uses different colors of jump rings in Making Chain Maille Easier here: Making Chain Maille Easier Click Here
More complicated chains repeat ring connection series.
The Byzantine repeats the same steps twice for its traditional look.
Each series uses six jump rings in sets of two.
Use same size and gauge rings in three metal colors like brass, copper, and silver.
Or try silver plated craft wire, enameled craft wire, or enameled aluminum wire.
Use soft jaw pliers to open and close coated rings without scratching the finish.
Kylie Jones explains why she uses different colors of jump rings in Making Chain Maille Easier here: Making Chain Maille Easier Click Here
Jump rings are tiny and hard to hold, especially when starting a chain.
Insert a twist tie into the first ring or rings to make holding easier.
Attaching a clasp to a tight weave chain can be difficult once finished.
Start the chain with the clasp. This makes it easier to hold and helps check fit or finished length near the end.
Insert a twist tie into the first ring or rings to make holding easier.
Attaching a clasp to a tight weave chain can be difficult once finished.
Start the chain with the clasp. This makes it easier to hold and helps check fit or finished length near the end.
The Byzantine Chain is a 4-in-1 chain.
Each link passes through four others, making it very strong.
Interlocking rings strengthen the Byzantine and other advanced chains for normal wear and tear.
Each link passes through four others, making it very strong.
Interlocking rings strengthen the Byzantine and other advanced chains for normal wear and tear.
VISUAL DIFFERENCES USING DIFFERENT SIZE AND GAUGE JUMP RINGS
Jump ring wire gauge and interior diameter (ID) affect any chain's end product.
Both Byzantine bracelets here used machine-cut rings, my preferred method.
The left bracelet uses full hard 20 gauge, 3mm ID rings.
The right uses half hard 18 gauge, 3.5mm ID rings.
Both have dense weaves, but the 0.5mm ID difference and gauge change greatly impact finished chain size and diameter.
Jump ring wire gauge and interior diameter (ID) affect any chain's end product.
Both Byzantine bracelets here used machine-cut rings, my preferred method.
The left bracelet uses full hard 20 gauge, 3mm ID rings.
The right uses half hard 18 gauge, 3.5mm ID rings.
Both have dense weaves, but the 0.5mm ID difference and gauge change greatly impact finished chain size and diameter.
Both chains use 18 gauge jump rings.
The lower chain has 3.5mm ID rings (like the one on the right above).
The upper chain has 4.5mm ID rings.
The upper chain looks lacier and more open.
The lower chain appears denser and chunkier.
The lower chain has 3.5mm ID rings (like the one on the right above).
The upper chain has 4.5mm ID rings.
The upper chain looks lacier and more open.
The lower chain appears denser and chunkier.
Pro Tip: When I first started teaching the Byzantine, three short sections of 18 gauge sample chains were made as examples for students to choose from-all misplaced somewhere along the way. Having samples of most often made chains in a variety of jump ring gauges and sizes can be helpful in determining which to make to complement a new design.
Both chains here are made with 18 gauge 4.5mm ID jump rings.
The patina on the copper chain makes the rings look heavier and more dense than the bright silver chain
The patina on the copper chain makes the rings look heavier and more dense than the bright silver chain
Mobius Rings Click Here
Ring sizes change the weave dramatically.
Top chain's Byzantine portion uses 20 gauge, 4.5mm ID jump rings.
Bottom chain uses 20 gauge, 3mm ID rings.
1.5mm difference creates a big visual impact!
Top chain's Byzantine portion uses 20 gauge, 4.5mm ID jump rings.
Bottom chain uses 20 gauge, 3mm ID rings.
1.5mm difference creates a big visual impact!
Pro Tip: After a friend passed, her husband found her bag of 18 gauge, 4.5mm ID sterling silver jump rings.
I used them to make Byzantine bracelets for each family girl.
Add a slightly domed disc stamped with her initials and .925 to mark it as precious metal made with love.
Pass bracelets down generations. Recipients know the metal's value and sentimental meaning.
I used them to make Byzantine bracelets for each family girl.
Add a slightly domed disc stamped with her initials and .925 to mark it as precious metal made with love.
Pass bracelets down generations. Recipients know the metal's value and sentimental meaning.
FOR FUN: Byzantine uses three sets of two smooth rings on repeat.
Replace middle two with twisted square wire rings, one step down in diameter (e.g., 22 gauge twisted square with 20 gauge smooth).
FOR FUN: Search "Graduated Byzantine Necklace" for videos and printable directions.
The Byzantine weave is versatile.
It suits many designs beyond standard bracelets or necklaces.
Short segments shine, especially with added beads.
Byzantine Chain Maille Pendant Click Here
Replace middle two with twisted square wire rings, one step down in diameter (e.g., 22 gauge twisted square with 20 gauge smooth).
FOR FUN: Search "Graduated Byzantine Necklace" for videos and printable directions.
The Byzantine weave is versatile.
It suits many designs beyond standard bracelets or necklaces.
Short segments shine, especially with added beads.
Byzantine Chain Maille Pendant Click Here
This bracelet uses 12mm flat puffed coin or square beads.
Make it repeatedly. It never looks the same.
Imagine it as a longer necklace.
Find the Botswana Agate Half Byzantine Chain Maille Necklace Click Here
Make it repeatedly. It never looks the same.
Imagine it as a longer necklace.
Find the Botswana Agate Half Byzantine Chain Maille Necklace Click Here
These stunning Byzantine Chainmaille Earrings featuring 6mm beads by Natalie Pattten can be found here: Click Here
Combine with a 2-in-2 double cable chain and beads.
This gorgeous Romanov Chainmaille Pendant by Natalie Patten features two Byzantine weave sections around an 8mm bead.
Romanov Chainmaille Pendant Click Here
This gorgeous Romanov Chainmaille Pendant by Natalie Patten features two Byzantine weave sections around an 8mm bead.
Romanov Chainmaille Pendant Click Here
Pro Tip: Try your hand at some new chains. After making Byzantine chains, the construction of the following chains will be easy.
This Chunky Chain Maille Keychain by Kylie Jones is a great introduction to the Full Persian Chain weave, which is essentially a more complex version the Byzantine weave. Chunky Chain Maille Keychain Click Here
The Helm Weave or Parallel Weave is another chain that looks difficult but is actually very easy.
Find the Beaded Helm Chain Maille Earrings by Kylie Jones here:Helm Weave Click Here
Find the Beaded Helm Chain Maille Earrings by Kylie Jones here:Helm Weave Click Here
Search "wirejewelry byzantine Kylie Jones" or "Natalie Patten".
Find fabulously easy Byzantine projects.
Or try "wirejewelry chain maille Kylie Jones" or "Natalie Patten" for more involved ones.
Bonus: Their designs are fast, easy, and look professional!
Find fabulously easy Byzantine projects.
Or try "wirejewelry chain maille Kylie Jones" or "Natalie Patten" for more involved ones.
Bonus: Their designs are fast, easy, and look professional!
Pro Tip: In chain maille, few rules are hard and fast.
We evolved from simple Cable Chains to intricate artisan designs today.
Don't fear additions or substitutions.
Directions called for one large jump ring size in this Helm Weave bracelet.
But 4mm large-hole sterling beads didn't move freely.
Sized up larger rings while keeping smaller connectors the same. Beads now slide easily.
Beaded chain gives a "caterpillar" look.
Open leaf toggle fits, made after hungry caterpillars defoliated local trees.
We evolved from simple Cable Chains to intricate artisan designs today.
Don't fear additions or substitutions.
Directions called for one large jump ring size in this Helm Weave bracelet.
But 4mm large-hole sterling beads didn't move freely.
Sized up larger rings while keeping smaller connectors the same. Beads now slide easily.
Beaded chain gives a "caterpillar" look.
Open leaf toggle fits, made after hungry caterpillars defoliated local trees.
Materials
Wire - Variety of gauges and metals
Tools
Basic Sawing Kit
G15-7
- G15-7
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $34.95
- Gold Club Price: $26.21
The Quad Jump Ring Former
DUR-1312
- DUR-1312
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $388.00
- Gold Club Price: $291.00
WireJewelry - Ultimate Wire-Pliers Jewelry Pliers with Case, Set of 5
G15-20
- G15-20
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $170.72
- Gold Club Price: $128.04
Flat Nose Wire Pliers
G2-506
- G2-506
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $32.95
- Gold Club Price: $24.71
20 X 15 Inch Padded Work Mat
MAT-620.00
- MAT-620.00
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $14.95
- Gold Club Price: $11.21
WireJewelry Pro-Series Single Barrel Tumbler, Jewelry and Metal Polishing Kit, Includes 1 Pound of Jewelers Mix Shot and 8 Ounces of Shinebrite Burnishing Compound
G25-1-KITSS
- G25-1-KITSS
- Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
- Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
- Price: $173.27
- Gold Club Price: $129.95
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- Category: Teaching
- Technique(s): Chain Making, Making Jump Rings, Teaching, General Education, Chain Maille
Judy Larson
Other Articles by Judy Larson
What is Druzy
Coiled Wire Jewelry Series Part 1 - Everything New is Old
Where do you create
Soldering on Copper
Charting Your Creations
Design Process with 3 Earrings
All About Rolling Mills
How to Use Disc Cutters to Make Metal Washers
Disc Cutter Basics and How to Make Metal Washers
I Am Not a Hoarder
The Beauty of Druzy
Design Process with 3 Different Earrings
Think Outside the Box - Alternative Metal Texturing
Fall Leaves for Your Designs
Cholula "Folk Art" Charms
Lemons to Lemonade
Why You Should Take a Class
Bead, Shell, and Rock Cabochons
What Tools Do I Need for Wirework and Bead Stringing - Start With The Basics
Choosing Pliers
Saving, Storing, Using Tutorials
Flop to Flip
The Story of Turquoise
Non Marring Tools
Using Lower Quality Beads
Differences in Gold Plating
Inventorying Your Supplies
Engineering the Multi-chain Necklace
Benefits of Extender Chains
My Most Often Used Embellishments
Sliding Gauges and Calipers
Wire and Sheet Gauge Measuring Tool
Silver Plated Copper Craft Wire
Jewelry from Other Cultures
Conversation Starters
Well, That Didn't Work, Now What
Water Casting for the Weekend Jeweler
A Few Thoughts on Multi-Strand Beading Wires
How to Downsize Your Earring Projects Without Losing Style
Celebration Jewelry
Moonstone- A Flash of Light
A Short History of Charms and Charm Bracelets
Easy Asymmetry
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