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Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain, Contemporary Wire Jewelry. Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design. Judy Larson shares a smart solution for when store-bought chains just don't feel strong enough for your designs.

A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain

by Judy Larson
  • Category: Contemporary
  • Technique(s): Cutting, Making Loops, Design
  • Skill Level: Intermediate
Judy Larson shares a smart solution for when store-bought chains just don't feel strong enough for your designs.

This updated take on a Figure-8 chain uses thicker wire and simple texturing to create a bold, finished look. It's a practical approach that saves metal, adds style, and hides tool marks at the same time.

Materials

16 Gauge Square Half Hard Argentium .940 Silver Wire
H19-16SQH
  • Lesson Quantity: 5.00 feet
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 5FT
  • Price: $178.42
  • Gold Club Price: $133.81
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Silver Solder Paste Soft SS65- 1/4 T.O.
SOL-822.10
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $20.95
  • Gold Club Price: $15.71
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Sterling Silver Swivel Lobster 19mm - Pack of 1
K3-152
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $10.30
  • Gold Club Price: $7.73
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Sterling Silver Spring Ring w/ Ring 14mm - Pack of 1
K3-198
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $18.62
  • Gold Club Price: $13.96
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T-pin
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
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Tools

8 Piece Brass And Steel Mini Mandrel Set
G7-28
  • G7-28
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $9.97
  • Gold Club Price: $7.48
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Wubbers Large Bail Making Pliers
G2-1303
  • G2-1303
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $27.97
  • Gold Club Price: $20.98
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Wubbers Medium Bail Making Pliers
G2-1302
  • G2-1302
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $27.95
  • Gold Club Price: $20.96
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Xuron Flush Cutter - Pack of 1
G2-504
  • G2-504
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $29.95
  • Gold Club Price: $22.46
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12 Inch Stainless Steel Ruler
G7-30
  • G7-30
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $2.97
  • Gold Club Price: $2.23
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retractable fine nose Sharpie
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
Basic Soldering Kit
G15-4
  • G15-4
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $58.95
  • Gold Club Price: $44.21
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Micro-Flame Butane Torch
SOL-300.00
  • SOL-300.00
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $36.97
  • Gold Club Price: $27.73
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7 Piece Mini TruStrike Hammer Set with Stand
HAM-520.70
  • HAM-520.70
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $140.54
  • Gold Club Price: $105.40
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Bench Blocks - 130 X 130 X 20
DUR-1187
  • DUR-1187
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $66.67
  • Gold Club Price: $50.00
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steel round bezel mandrel
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
WireJewelry - Ultimate Wire-Pliers Jewelry Pliers with Case, Set of 5
G15-20
  • G15-20
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $170.72
  • Gold Club Price: $128.04
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10 Piece Diamond Needle Files - 140mm X 3mm
G14-8
  • G14-8
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $13.57
  • Gold Club Price: $10.18
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WireJewelry Ultra Pro Micro Abrasive Polishing Pads, 20 pack
G9-5-20PK
  • G9-5-20PK
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $8.95
  • Gold Club Price: $6.71
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WET/DRY PAPER 9 X 11 ASST- 20PC- 2EA GRIT 180-3000
ABR-500.90
  • ABR-500.90
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $24.95
  • Gold Club Price: $18.71
Add to Bag
Liver of Sulphur Gel, 1 Ounce Bottle
SOL-610.01
  • SOL-610.01
  • Lesson Quantity: 1.00 pieces
  • Purchase Quantity: 1.00 each
  • Price: $9.95
  • Gold Club Price: $7.46
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Instructions
Step 1
Flush cut the leading end of the wire coil using a heavy duty flush cutter.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Flush cut the leading end
Step 2
Use the larger 9mm side of the Large Wubbers Round Mandrel Pliers to make a loop at the end of the square wire.

Keep the flush cut end as flat and flush as possible on the wire shank.

Bend the wire shank slightly if needed.

Option: Use Acculoop Precision Round Nose Pliers for the loops.

Position the wire close to the cone end on the 8mm side of the jaw.

This creates about an 8.75mm loop.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Bend the wire shank slightly if needed
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Keep the flush cut end
Step 3
To make the flush cut wire end fit tightly against the wire shank, overlap the cut wire end slightly over the shank.

When pulled back, it will sit tight against the shank.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, make the flush cut wire end fit
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, cut wire end slightly over the shank
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, sit tight against the shank
Step 4
Cut the square wire shank 9/16" (approximately 15.5mm) long.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Cut the square wire
Step 5
Repeat Steps 1 through 4 until a total of 10 links are formed and cut. Make one more if making for an extra-large wrist.
Step 6
The final link depends on your clasp.

For a 19mm Swivel Lobster Clasp: Make a jump ring with 16 gauge square wire on the larger jaw of the Large Wubbers Round Mandrel Pliers. Flush cut both ends.

For a 14mm round Spring Ring Clasp: Make an extra link following Steps 1 through 4.

10 links are shown for a small wrist.

The spring ring only clasps through the perpendicular small end loop.

The lobster clasp attaches anywhere and lies flat against the wrist.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Make a jump ring
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Make an extra link following Steps
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, The lobster clasp attaches anywhere
Step 7
If the bracelet is worn with the inside chain facing out, make all links the same way for a better look.

For 14mm Spring Ring Clasp: Set one link aside, unsoldered.

Place medium paste solder under each join, including the large 16 gauge square wire jump ring.

Position each link solder-side down on a magnesia soldering block. Heat until solder flows up through the join.

Clasp assembly: Remove double rings from the opening side of the 14mm Spring Ring Clasp. Set aside for another project.

Open the large loop. Insert through the outer ring of the double ring on the clasp. Close and solder as above.

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Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, make all links the same way for a better look
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Place medium paste solder
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Position each link solder-side down
Step 8
Slide the loop onto a round bezel mandrel.

Use the rounded side of the Mini TruStrike Planishing Hammer to lightly texture the outside of the loop.

These loops can be textured to size for different wrist sizes. Small wrist (14mm Spring Ring Clasp): 9.5mm interior diameter. Average to large wrist: 10mm interior diameter.

Use flat nose pliers to bend the wire shank (still on the mandrel) so it centers on the loop.

Hint: Draw a line with an ultra fine point retractable Sharpie around the bottom of a finished loop on the mandrel. Finish remaining loops to match this size.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Slide the loop onto a round bezel mandrel.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Use the rounded side of the Mini TruStrike Planishing Hammer
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Use flat nose pliers to bend the wire shank
Step 9
Place a link on a bench block.

Lightly texture the top side of the loop with the Mini TruStrike Planishing Hammer.

Do not texture the wire shank.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Place a link on a bench block.
Step 10
Use files and sanding pads to clean excess solder from the back side of each link.

There may be a bit on the front side to clean up as well.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Use files and sanding pads
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, front side to clean up as well.
Step 11
Using the 3mm small side of Medium Wubbers Round Mandrel Pliers, make a loop with the wire shank.

Bend it to the front of each link.

Keep the flush cut wire end as flat and tight as possible against the loop seam.

The back looks more professional if the loop faces front. If needed, anneal each link after forming the small loop.

Then use chain nose plier tips to finesse the end into place.

Option: Place the wire on the 3mm mark of Acculoop Precision Round Nose Pliers to make the loop.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, make a loop with the wire shank.
Step 12
Solder a link's small loop closed as in Step 14.

Attach the 19mm Swivel Lobster Clasp to a large ring using a 16 gauge 4mm ID Argentium jump ring.

Consider: Solder the jump ring closed for strength. Leave it open as a safety release if the bracelet snags, preventing harm to the wearer.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Attach the 19mm Swivel Lobster Clasp
Step 13
Just like opening a jump ring, the small loop on a link is twisted sideways to attach another link.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, attach another link.
Step 14
Close the small loop, ensuring the connection stays flush.

Place the links on a magnesia soldering block.

Add a generous amount of medium paste solder inside the ring at the small loop's connection to the large ring.

Heat until the solder flows.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Place the links on a magnesia soldering block.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Add a generous amount of medium paste solder
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Heat until the solder flows.
Step 15
Follow the directions above.

If desired, slide a piece of balled wire into the paste solder.

The ball mimics the ball-tipped trigger on the Spring Ring Clasp.

Hint: In Step 1, flush cut 3/8" wire ends and ball them for each link.

Hang each link over the soldering block edge for flush contact.

Use a t-pin to secure the chain when the hanging part gets heavy.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, slide a piece of balled wire into the paste solder.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Hang each link over the soldering block edge
Step 16
Continue adding links the same way until you reach the desired length.

On the final link for the Swivel Lobster Clasp, attach the soldered and textured large 16 gauge square wire jump ring.

I originally planned this jump ring for dangle charms. It works well with the 19mm Swivel Lobster Clasp.

However, it did not suit the 14mm Spring Ring Clasp bracelet. After wearing it a week, I removed it for better comfort.

You are the designer. Make choices based on personal preference.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Continue adding links
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, attach the soldered
Step 17
Use round nose pliers to center the small loop on the large loop.

This helps the bracelet curve better around the wrist. It also checks the small loop joins.

If one pops open, adjust the loop, add more medium solder, and resolder the join.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, center the small loop
Step 18
Clean all solder joins, ensuring the front looks as good as the back.

Pay special attention to the sides of the small loops.

Don't worry if everything isn't perfect.

This chain will get knocked around during wear, collecting dents and scratches that make it look even better.
Step 19
Pickle, rinse, and dry the piece
Step 20
Tumble for several hours to bring up a nice shine.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Clean all solder joins
Step 21
Embellish the bracelet to your heart's content.
Step 22
Apply patina according to manufacturer directions. Rinse and let dry.
Step 23
To highlight the aged appearance, use 0000 steel wool or a fine sanding pad to remove patina from high areas.

The bracelet skips tumbling after this step.

The soft steel wool finish adds character.

Note: Some gemstones can't withstand tumbling.

For higher shine, tumble the chain 20-30 minutes first, then add gemstones.
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, sanding pad to remove patina from high areas
Judy Larson's A New Take on a Figure-8 Chain - , Contemporary Wire Jewelry, Cutting, Cutting Tool, Cutters, Loops, Wire Loop, Wrapped Wire Loop, Design, Some gemstones can't withstand tumbling.

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