What is Vermeil

by Dale Armstrong
Question:

Could you tell me about vermeil? I have a bracelet that is marked 925 FAS and is gold in color. I was told it was vermeil-gold over silver.

-Penni in Lubbock, Texas

Question:

Which is considered higher quality, 18kt gold fill or 18kt vermeil?

-Melody in Durham, North Carolina
Instructions
Answer to "What is Vermeil":

Vermeil (ver-may) is a French word adopted into English in the 19th century, originally meaning silver gilt.

Vermeil is a combination of sterling silver coated with gold and other precious metals.
A common example is sterling silver coated with 18 karat gold.

To be called vermeil, the gold must be at least 10 karat (42% pure) and at least 1.5 micrometers thick.
Sterling silver coated with any other metal cannot be called vermeil.

Vermeil can be made by fire gilding or electrolysis.

Fire gilding was developed in France in the mid-1700s but was banned due to mercury exposure causing blindness among artisans.

Today, vermeil is safely produced through electrolysis.

Be cautious if using or selling handmade jewelry with vermeil components, as the gold coating is very thin and can wear off easily with regular use.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong
Answer to 18K comparison:

The difference between gold fill and vermeil lies in the thickness of the gold and the base metal.

To be called vermeil, the base must be sterling silver, and the gold coating must be at least 10 karat.

According to the FTC's Guides for the Jewelry, Precious Metals, and Pewter Industries:

It's deceptive to label a product "vermeil" if it misrepresents the true composition.

A product can be called vermeil only if sterling silver is coated on all significant surfaces with gold or gold alloy of at least 10 karat fineness, with a minimum thickness of 2.5 microns (about 0.0001 inches).

It's unfair to use "vermeil" for sterling silver covered by a base metal (like nickel) plated with gold unless clearly disclosed.

Regarding gold fill:

Terms like "Gold Filled," "Rolled Gold Plate," or "Gold Overlay" must only be used if the product has a mechanically applied gold alloy plating thick enough to ensure reasonable durability.
The karat fineness of the gold alloy must also be clearly stated.

Therefore, 18kt gold filled is generally a better quality product than vermeil.

Answer contributed by Dale "Cougar" Armstrong

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  • Category: General Education
  • Technique(s): Design